Red Dirt, Wild Horses, and Broken Chains: Our Moab & Naturita Adventure
The drive up to Naturita was spectacular. Red sandstone cliffs rise hundreds of feet above the highway, and massive boulders are scattered across the canyon floor like ancient monuments. The road winds gently through Unaweep Canyon, revealing fresh views at every turn—smooth sculpted walls, jagged spires, and billion-year-old rock formations that make the whole stretch feel like a journey through deep time.
Our campsite at CampV in Naturita was secluded and beautifully primitive, but the hosts had some incredibly creative setups. My absolute favorite was an old school bus they’d converted into a Wi-Fi lounge and mosquito shield! They also had an eco-toilet and a shower.
Of course, no camping trip with the kids is complete without a little wildlife panic. Just as Camilla was getting into the shower, Connor made a horrifying discovery: a wasp nest. Cue a lot of screaming. Thankfully, Camilla was the last one in line to wash up, so the rest of us narrowly survived the ordeal!
Later, we spent some time swimming and taking the kayak out on a little pond near camp. Carly was having a hard time getting her kayak into the water, so I stepped in to help. I gave it a solid push, completely lost my grip, and watched helplessly as it floated away. I ended up having to wade in and execute a full, unplanned kayak rescue mission before we even got started.
Off-Roading in Disappointment Valley
Early Friday morning, we headed out to Disappointment Valley to explore the wild horse sanctuary. At 8:15 AM, we pulled up to a two-story cabin to meet our guide, TJ.
TJ is an absolute wealth of knowledge. She is fully responsible for the sanctuary alongside the BLM and oversees about 76 horses (some of which she owns personally). Much to my relief, she told me she used to be a journalist, which completely explained her fantastic storytelling skills! I always appreciate a good narrative.
Some fascinating things we learned from her:
The Locations are Separate: We learned the distinction between the private Disappointment Valley Mustang Sanctuary (where the Serengeti Foundation owns the property and the mustangs) and the Spring Creek Basin Herd Management Area (which is managed by the BLM). TJ made sure to clarify that she doesn't own any of the SCB mustangs!
The History: In the late 1800s, explorers entered the area expecting to find Disappointment Creek (which had not been named yet)—not the Dolores River—to water their horses. They were highly "disappointed" to find the valley completely dry. Later ranchers found the valley equally frustrating, as the soil is highly alkaline and salty—terrible for crops and grazing.
Herd and Sanctuary Maintenance: TJ talked to Connor about how they safely manage the horses' birth rates. She also showed us their watering holes; if there isn't enough rain, they have to physically truck water in.
Local Wildlife: She casually mentioned having to rescue a rattlesnake from under one of the water tanks. (I still cannot figure out why she wanted to rescue a rattlesnake rather than kill it, but to each their own! Apparently, they are great for local pest control).
- TJ let us know that Spring Creek was completely dry, which was great news for our truck since it meant no sketchy river crossings. Almost immediately after turning onto the sanctuary's dirt road, we spotted a band of wild horses in the distance. TJ handed over her binoculars so we could get a great look.
As we drove a little further, we had a truly rare encounter. A group of horses was standing super close to our truck. TJ noted that they rarely let people get this close, and it’s equally rare to catch them finding shade under the trees. We stood there for a long time just watching them stare right back at us.
Herd Highlights:
Spotting a beautiful little colt.
Meeting a striking black-and-white horse named Corazon, named for the perfect heart-shaped spot on his coat.
We spent about 3.5 hours four-wheel driving through the sanctuary, and I’m pretty sure my blood pressure peaked near the end. We drove over old river beds, washouts, and deep divots that required intense focus so we wouldn't get stuck in the middle of nowhere. Naturally, the bumpy, intense 4WD experience was the kids' favorite part of the whole day.
For me? The real thrill was simply making it back to civilization. I didn’t realize we would be covering so much ground in 4WD, which burns through fuel incredibly fast. After we said our goodbyes to TJ, I had to white-knuckle it straight to the nearest gas station. We rolled up to the pump with exactly 13 miles to empty. Talk about a grand finale!Paradox Valley & The Moab Heat
After a perfectly relaxing morning wrapping up our time in Naturita, we hit the road for the two-hour drive to Moab. Just as TJ had promised, the route took us straight through the breathtaking landscape of Paradox Valley.
As you crest the hill, the valley suddenly unfolds below you, a broad, isolated expanse stretching nearly 25 miles long, framed by massive parallel mesas and colorful red-and-tan canyon walls. It feels surprisingly wide and empty out there, with only a handful of ranches scattered across the valley floor.
The geology here is fascinating. The valley got its name because the Dolores River does something completely unexpected: instead of flowing along the valley floor, it slices directly across it, cutting right through the towering cliffs as if ignoring the path of least resistance. Early geologists found this so unusual that they simply dubbed it "Paradox." The road winds down into the valley through open ranchland, offering spectacular views in every direction. The mesas practically glow in shades of rust, orange, and burgundy, and the scenery shifts dramatically depending on the season:
Bright green cottonwoods lining the Dolores River in spring and summer.
Golden grasses and deep blue skies in late summer.
Brilliant yellow cottonwoods contrasting with red rock in autumn.
Snow-dusted mesas in winter, creating a striking desert-meets-mountain landscape.
We rolled into Moab right around 3:00 PM, and the desert heat was in full force at over 100 degrees. We didn't waste a second—we headed straight for the local pool to cool down before making our way up to our campsite. After a refreshing swim, we grabbed some delicious burgers and salads in downtown Moab.
Our home base for this leg of the trip was Dead Horse Point State Park, located about 35 minutes uphill toward Canyonlands. The elevation gain was a lifesaver, dropping the temperature by a glorious 10 degrees. The park's name carries a heavy piece of cowboy history:
The Legend of the Corral: In the 1800s, cowboys utilized the high peninsula as a natural corral, completely surrounded by sheer 2,000-foot vertical cliffs. The only way on or off the point is a narrow, 30-yard-wide strip of land called "The Neck." Cowboys would herd wild mustangs across the neck and block the opening with branches and brush to trap them. Tragically, after picking the best horses, cowboys once left the unwanted horses behind. According to the famous story, the horses were left locked on the waterless point where they died of thirst, heartbreakingly able to see the Colorado River 2,000 feet below.
While we set up camp, Camilla took off for an evening mountain bike ride on the Big Chief Trail. She timed it perfectly, rolling back into camp just in time for a few hilarious rounds of Cards Against Humanity.
Bikes, Pools, and Poison Spider
The next morning started early for both of us. Camilla woke up at dawn to tackle the entirety of the Big Chief Trail, while I rode the Moab Canyon Pathway. Being out on the bike with those massive canyon walls towering overhead absolutely took my breath away.
We both returned to camp, whipped up a massive breakfast, and immediately headed back to the Moab City Pool. Since the campground doesn't have showers, the pool was the perfect spot to wash off the red dirt and cool down. Refreshed, we did a little gift shopping around town. Camilla was a huge fan of the Poison Spider bike shop, and we made a crucial stop at Gearheads, an awesome outdoor shop that generously lets visitors fill up on filtered water for free.
Speaking of camp, Dead Horse Point turned out to be an incredible spot to stay. It is very well-maintained with plenty of much-needed shade, an excellent dishwashing station, and clean bathrooms. We headed back to our shady site to cook a yummy dinner, followed by a gorgeous sunset hike out to the West Rim Trail. We capped off the night the best way we know how: more Cards Against Humanity under the desert stars.
One Last Ride and the Journey HomeOn our final morning, Camilla and I woke up early to ride the Moab Canyon Pathway together. I had actually woken up in the middle of the night to the sound of wind violently flapping against the tent. It was so loud that it sounded like someone was hitting the outside of it. Almost immediately, I smelled wildfire smoke and instantly freaked out, convinced our tent was going to burn down.
I jumped out of bed to check outside, but thankfully, nothing was there. Still, my adrenaline was pumping so hard that I panicked in the dark for about an hour before I finally managed to fall back asleep. When Camilla and I got up the next morning, the air was thick with smoke. It turned out to be a combination of regional wildfire smoke blown in all the way from the Pacific Northwest, mixed with some active local fires burning right there in Utah.
Despite the haze, the Moab Canyon Pathway was a smooth, incredibly scenic ride beneath towering red sandstone cliffs. The paved bike trail gently climbs out of town toward Arches National Park, offering dramatic, postcard-perfect Moab views without any of the highway traffic. The canyon walls were glowing in the morning sun with ravens circling overhead.
It was an easy, fun ride, at least until the chain popped off my bike with three miles left to go! Since I couldn't shift, I just coasted the rest of the way back to the start while Camilla showed off by practicing riding with no hands. (Dad would be proud of her bike skills!).We cooked one last yummy camp breakfast, packed up the gear, and hit the road around noon. The drive back toward the Front Range was smooth, and we wrapped up the entire adventure with a mandatory, well-earned dinner stop at Beau Jo's in Idaho Springs for some mountain pies before getting back to Castle Rock. It was the perfect final summer escape before 5th-grade orientation kicks off this week!
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